Woo hoo, The Great British Sewing Bee is back for series four! I won’t ask if you’re excited; I was on Twitter yesterday and my feed was full of GBSB chat:) I hope international friends get to watch it too (p.s. when I used to travel for work, I watched on iplayer live using a UK VPN).
Alongside the new series, there’s also a new GBSB book by Wendy Gardiner. If you’re familiar with the previous series’ books, you’ll already be familiar with the format. The book starts with a ‘Know Before You Sew’ section, which contains a brief overview of sewing supplies, machines, fabric types, and the techniques used in the book. The introductory chapter also includes a short overview of common fitting techniques (including bust adjustments and trouser fitting), although you’d need to seek out additional advice in order to really get the hang of the techniques.
The majority of the book contains garment projects; there are 27 in total which are split as follows: 20 women’s; 2 men’s; 3 children’s; 1 baby; 1 unisex (kimono). I don’t have any insight into what the contestants will be making in future episodes of the series, but I think we can make some good guesses based on the book! The patterns include a range of basics including the bias-cut top made in episode one, a breton top, palazzo pants, peplum dress, wiggle skirt and camisole top and shorts. There are also some more unusual patterns such as a soft-cup bra (I’m looking forward to that episode!), asymmetric top and skirt, man’s cycling top, and a sequin cocktail dress.
My favourite patterns from the book are the YSL-inspired Colour-Blocked Dress, and the Asymmetric Skirt. The children’s dungarees are adorable, and, although there are only two men’s patterns, they are both interesting choices – a cycle top, and a pin-tuck shirt.
Full-size pattern pieces are provided on paper pattern sheets in a separate sleeve. Each sheet is labelled with which patterns it contains. Pattern pieces are overlapped, and can be a little fiddly to identify (Burda-style). Make sure to take note of the pattern piece name font colour on the sheet, as the pattern piece outline will be in the same colour – making it easier to identify. Although pattern pieces are full size, some are split in two parts on the sheet due to available space, requiring piecing-together when tracing. I noticed that a few patterns pieces were missing some information, but nothing too misleading (i.e for the Culottes pattern, the waistband piece was missing notches referred to in the instructions, and the pocket piece didn’t state how many pieces to cut).
A number of patterns within the book are labelled as ‘hacks’ (e.g the Culottes are a hack of the Palazzo Pants pattern), but helpfully the pattern pieces include cutting lines for the hack variations, so there’s no need for sewers to manually hack the patterns themselves.
In order to try the book for myself, I made up the Culottes pattern (to my mind actually a short-trouser as opposed to culottes, but that’s a matter of opinion).
I found the sizing information in the book a little vague. The size chart at the start of the book (sizes 8-20; 32 1/2 – 45 1/2 bust) is labelled as ‘standard ready-to-wear women’s measurement chart’; I couldn’t see an explicit statement that the patterns in the book are based on that chart, although they appear to be. Each pattern has an individual ‘Finished Measurement’ sizing chart, but the amount of ease listed appears to be inaccurate in some instances (e.g. the jumpsuit pattern, which appears relatively fitted in the photo, states that it includes just under 10 inch ease at the bust, as does the Breton Top).
For the Culottes Pattern, for example, the overall sizing chart gives the Size 8 waist measurement as 65cm, while the finished measurement chart states the culottes have an 82cm waist (so 17cm ease). I measured the actual pattern pieces and found that the waistband measured 67cm (so a more standard 2cm ease). As such, I’d highly recommend checking the sizing charts, but then measuring the actual pattern pieces before cutting into your fabric.
Other than the sizing information, the Culottes went together easily following the illustrated step-by-step instructions. The only changes I made were to leave off the pocket (the pattern only includes a pocket at one side due to a side zip, which I thought would feel strange), and I gathered the trousers slightly in order to attach them to the waistband as there is quite a significant difference in the width of the trouser front/back pieces and the waistband.
I wore these to work today and I think they’ll be a really useful addition to my wardrobe. The fabric is a navy peachskin polyester from new online fabric shop Adam Ross Fabrics, who are based local to me in Birmingham. The fabric has a lovely drape and is super soft; I want to get some more to make a dress.
I’m wearing the culottes in these photos with a Paprika Pattern Onyx Shirt, and a woven scarf from Sancho’s Dress, handwoven in Ethiopia on a wooden loom.
Don’t forget to read the rest of the posts on the Blog Tour:
MONDAY 16TH MAY
Made Peachy
Cut Out & Keep
TUESDAY 17TH MAY
English Girl at Home
The Sewing Directory
WEDNESDAY 18TH MAY
Sew Over It
THURSDAY 19TH MAY
The Fold Line
Sew What’s New
FRIDAY 20TH MAY
By Hand London
SATURDAY 21ST MAY
A Stitching Odyssey
SUNDAY 22ND MAY
Crafty Sew & So
Guthrie & Ghani
Disclaimer: I was provided with a free copy of From Stitch to Style in exchange for a review, by Quadrille Publishing; I was provided with fabric from Adam Ross Fabrics for use in a project of my choice; all opinions expressed are my own.
May 17, 2016 at 11:31 pm
Thank you for a useful and comprehensive review. The culottes look great and I’m very happy to say that I watched GBSB in Australia last night after installing my VPN. Woo hoo!
May 18, 2016 at 7:47 am
Thank you, very glad to hear you’re able to watch;)
May 18, 2016 at 6:57 am
This is a very useful review. I don’t usually but gbsb books but I have to say I like a lot of the patterns you’ve posted. I’m looking at hacking the Anna Dress by By Hand London and was thinking of going for a pencil skirt + peplum, and here it is pretty much in the book!
I’m a bit put off by the mistakes though. I hope they sort them out in a re-edition (amazing they don’t check these things before it goes to press! I mean 17cm ease instead of 2?!)
Also, I have a couple of unrelated questions: what’s a VPN? And where is Adam Ross (do they only sell online?)?
May 18, 2016 at 7:59 am
Yes Adam Ross are online only (although I wonder if they’d let some local sewers visit one of the days…). VPN is just the network your computer is connected to when online – so you can connect to a network located in another country to trick iplayer & similar. Your planned dress sounds amazing. I’m sure you’ll get on fine with the book – I’d just measure all pattern pieces before tracing/cutting so you can pick an accurate size. x
May 18, 2016 at 1:07 pm
Great review, appreciate your honesty about the sizing. The culottes look fun.
May 19, 2016 at 7:57 pm
Cool culottes! I am a culottes fan (having made 3 pairs) and I may make some blue ones like yours.
May 20, 2016 at 12:21 am
Thanks for such a comprehensive review. GBSB isn’t aired in Australia so we have to find other ways of watching it!
May 25, 2016 at 8:32 am
I think you must have received a different version of the book to me, as not only are there all the issues you mention, but the palazzo pants pieces are wrongly labelled – weren’t yours? I know what a front and back crutch curve should look like and I saw that the dart was supposed to be at the back, but a novice would probably have had huge problems. Especially since the patterns are divided into two to fit on the sheets – cheapo publisher!
I contacted thethrifystitcher.co.uk as someone at the Fold Line said she is the pattern designer – perhaps she should be told about all the other issues…..
Totally agree that those are not culottes but short trousers – it was my first reaction too:).
July 9, 2016 at 5:39 pm
Hi I have just cut these out for a size 16, and found the stated waist measurement is 40.5″, the pieces were about right, but the waist band was 34″ in total – so 6″ out, I have also noticed for a size 16 the measurements go from 34″ to 43″ on different patterns, which is a little disappointing, and a disaster for a beginner, especially if short on material.