english girl at home

A Sewing & Knitting Blog, Made in Birmingham, England


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Belted Sweater in Liberty Sweatshirting

Digital Pattern Library Liberty Belted Sweater

Pattern: Belted Sweater by Digital Pattern Library

Sewing time taken (excluding cutting out): 3.5 hours

Fabric: Liberty sweatshirting from Birmingham Rag Market (The Little World of Fabric, also known as ‘The Liberty Man’)

Digital Pattern Library Liberty Belted Sweater

I hope everyone who celebrates it had a good Christmas. I’ve had a couple of quiet days in the house following spending Christmas and Boxing Day with family, and a couple of busy weeks in the run up. I spent the days immediately before Christmas focused on sewing a couple of gifts (using Noodlehead’s Forage Bag pattern) and hastily sewing a new dress in a day (Trend Patterns’ 70s Dress). I finished the dress just in time to wear it on Christmas Day (with a spot of hand sewing on Christmas morning and my brother sewing me into the cuffs), but I rushed the last sections so they aren’t finished to a standard I’m happy with. I’m going to revisit the sections of the dress that I rushed, perhaps before New Year’s Eve so that I can wear the dress to a second party asap.

Digital Pattern Library Liberty Belted Sweater

These pictures were taken a few days before Christmas, in the local park on the way home from some last-minute present shopping. This is my second version of the Belted Sweater by Digital Pattern Library, sewn in a Liberty sweatshirting bought during this year’s SewBrum meet-up from the ‘Liberty Man’ in the Rag Market (also known as The Little World of Fabric on Ebay).

Digital Pattern Library Liberty Belted Sweater

After making my first Belted Sweater in a lightweight knit, I was keen to try it in a heavier-weight fabric. I spotted this Liberty fabric at a bargain price (I think I paid £20 in total) during SewBrum and thought I’d try pairing it with the pattern. The resulting sweater is very cosy and I’m really enjoying wearing it. I think a slightly lighter weight sweatshirting would be more practical though (and is what I’d opt for next time) as this Liberty fabric is very thick and with the ties wrapped around the waist I’ve found that my slim fit RTW coat won’t do up over it! Luckily I’ve now finished the Yates coat I started a year ago which is roomy enough to fit this jumper under.

Digital Pattern Library Liberty Belted Sweater

I love how different this pattern can look dependent how the ties are done up, and you can create some lovely pleats and tucks in the fabric. I’m a big fan of a good sweatshirt pattern (evidence: the number of Lindens I have sewn) and I love that this pattern offers something a bit different. I requires a bit more fabric and a bit more time than a more ‘standard’ sweatshirt, but is an equally straightforward project to sew.

Digital Pattern Library Liberty Belted Sweater

My brother has been trying to get me into Stardew Valley for a few years (I’m a big fan of the Harvest Moon games) and has bought me the Switch version for Christmas, so I’m going to curl up on the sofa and start farming this evening. Have a great new year everyone and I’ll catch you in 2020!

Digital Pattern Library Liberty Belted Sweater Digital Pattern Library Liberty Belted Sweater Digital Pattern Library Liberty Belted Sweater


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Pilatus Swimsuit on Holiday

Opian Pilatus Swimsuit in Liberty fabric

Pattern: Opian Pilatus

Time taken (excluding cutting out): 6 hours

Fabric: Liberty ‘Santa Monica Brighton Swim Regenerated Nylon’

Opian Pilatus Swimsuit in Liberty fabric

August and September have been a busy couple of months for me with a week’s weaving course, The Sewing Weekender, jeans making and ply split braiding workshops, and a holiday to Croatia. Today I’m finally having a quiet Saturday at home with time for video gaming (I bought myself Untitled Goose Game this morning), blogging, and – later on with any luck – some sewing. I might make a start on the Alice & Co Mary Quant-inspired Georgie Dress if I have a suitable fabric in my stash.

Opian Pilatus Swimsuit in Liberty fabric

After my weaving course and the Sewing Weekender, Phil suggested that perhaps we should go on holiday together for a change! I put in a request for somewhere sunny and near the sea as I fancied another go at sewing a swimsuit, specifically the Opian Pilatus sewing pattern.

Opian Pilatus Swimsuit in Liberty fabric

My Pilatus was inspired by the lovely versions by Katie and Linda in particular. I love the cut-outs, the high waist and that front tie. It is a really straightforward pattern to put together – the bodice is self-lined meaning that it’s not even necessary to attach elastic in the top, just at the edges of the bottoms. Following a couple of projects which seemed to take forever (but probably didn’t, just lots of short sewing sessions) I’ve started timing how long my sewing projects are taking for my own interest. Excluding cutting out, this project took me six hours, which I think is pretty reasonable for a swimsuit.

Opian Pilatus Swimsuit in Liberty fabric

This is the second swimsuit I have sewn, following a Bombshell Swimsuit in 2014. My sewing skills have increased enormously since 2014 (I only started garment sewing in earnest in 2013) – as have my blog pictures, check out those original Bombshell swimsuit pics in the garden. My Bombshell turned out perfectly wearable, and I still wear it, but I did struggle with getting a good fit. This time around I found swimsuit sewing straightforward. I cut a size 2/4, grading between sizes at the waist, with no changes to the pattern.

Opian Pilatus Swimsuit in Liberty fabric

The fabric is a Liberty swim-suiting fabric in print ‘Santa Monica’ and fabric type ‘Brighton Swim’. I bought it in a half-price sale (it’s still available if you’re quick) from the Liberty website. I’m really impressed by the quality of the fabric, it’s opaque, a good weight, and dries quickly once out of the water. The fabric I used for my Bombshell wasn’t really a swimsuiting fabric – I think it was probably intended for leotards or dance costumes. It works ok for a swimsuit but it takes ages to dry. This Liberty fabric feels so professional in comparison, which makes a huge difference to making my Pilatus feel well made.

Opian Pilatus Swimsuit in Liberty fabric

Excuse the number of pictures. I wore this swimsuit in Croatia to swim in the hotel pool, the ocean, and a salt lake on Lokrum Island. All of the locations were so beautiful that I couldn’t resist requesting a few more pictures (from Phil) each time.

Opian Pilatus Swimsuit in Liberty fabric
Opian Pilatus Swimsuit in Liberty fabric
Opian Pilatus Swimsuit in Liberty fabric


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Liberty Inari Tee Dress

Named Inari Tee Dress in Liberty Cotton Lawn

This is my first Named Clothing Inari Tee Dress, sewn using a metre of Liberty Tana Lawn, purchased as a pre-cut length in a Liberty sale.

Named Inari Tee Dress in Liberty Cotton Lawn

This print reminds me of Japanese woodblock prints, so I made sure to pack it for my recent holiday to Seoul (where these photos were taken) and Tokyo. However, Karen notes on her vlog that the print was actually inspired by Mount Stuart in Scotland. A perfect excuse for a trip to Scotland next, methinks.

Named Inari Tee Dress in Liberty Cotton Lawn

This dress was one of those projects which, I decided lateish in the evening, I absolutely needed to make to wear to work the next morning. Sometimes those projects turn out ok despite me, other times not.

In this instance, I selected a size based on the wrong size chart (i.e. I took the finished measurements chart to be the size chart) and cut the dress two sizes too small (a size 4 instead of 8). The dress ended up thrown aside in disgust for a couple of weeks before I revisited and realised that it did still fit, if a little lacking in ease.

Named Inari Tee Dress in Liberty Cotton Lawn

As an aside, I made Phil walk towards that lovely purple wall, as a perfect photo background, until we got close and realised that it was a paper covering over the real wall…

Named Inari Tee Dress in Liberty Cotton Lawn

I’ll definitely cut a larger size next time, as there’s quite a bit of pressure from my hips on the seam at the top of the side slits in this version! In fact, I’m planning to go back and reinforce them to protect this dress.

Named Inari Tee Dress in Liberty Cotton Lawn

This is totally my style and I love how little fabric it requires, so there will definitely be more Inari Tee Dresses added to my wardrobe.

Named Inari Tee Dress in Liberty Cotton Lawn

Named Inari Tee Dress in Liberty Cotton Lawn

Named Inari Tee Dress in Liberty Cotton Lawn

Named Inari Tee Dress in Liberty Cotton Lawn

Named Inari Tee Dress in Liberty Cotton Lawn


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The Seamworker’s Guide to Fashion Museums

Liberty in Fashion at The Fashion and Textile Museum

I have an article in the August issue of Seamwork, released today.

The article is a guide to some of the best fashion and textile museums around the world. I’ve visited some of these museums in person; others are on my to-see list. I did my best to squeeze in as many museums as I could within the article word count!

You can read the full article here, or download the magazine (for free) from the Seamwork website.

One of the museums included is the Fashion and Textile Museum in London, which is one of my favourites. Below are a few photos of their recent Liberty in Fashion exhibition which I visited back in January. I’m especially looking forward to their upcoming Jazz Age fashion and photography exhibition (23 September 2016 – 15 January 2017).

Liberty in Fashion at The Fashion and Textile Museum

Liberty in Fashion at The Fashion and Textile Museum

Liberty in Fashion at The Fashion and Textile Museum

Liberty in Fashion at The Fashion and Textile Museum

Liberty in Fashion at The Fashion and Textile Museum

Liberty in Fashion at The Fashion and Textile Museum

Liberty in Fashion at The Fashion and Textile Museum

Liberty in Fashion at The Fashion and Textile Museum

Liberty in Fashion at The Fashion and Textile Museum


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Sudley Blouse & Elsewhere

Megan Nielsen Sudley Blouse in Liberty Lawn

I recently had the opportunity to pattern test Megan Nielsen’s newest pattern, the Sudley Dress and Blouse. These photos are of the blouse I made using the test version of the pattern; Megan made a few changes to the final version of the pattern which it’s worth noting: reducing the size of the keyhole opening, and lowering the neckline.

Megan Nielsen Sudley Blouse in Liberty Lawn

The pattern is a loose fitting blouse or dress (with loads of variations), which is reversible. I’m wearing it here with the keyhole at the back (which is my personal preference in this version), but it can also be worn at the front. I’ve included the peter pan collar, but it can be left off for a sleeker silhouette.

Megan Nielsen Sudley Blouse in Liberty Lawn

I managed to squeeze this test version out of a small piece of fabric from my stash. I bought the fabric as a remnant from Birmingham Rag Market, but I’m pretty sure it’s Liberty tana lawn. I previously used the same fabric to make a Branson Top.

Because it needs to be loose fitting in order to be reversible, the Sudley pattern would actually suit a drapey fabric better than this cotton lawn – which results in a more boxy silhouette (Megan makes the same recommendation in her launch post). For my second version, I’m thinking a solid-coloured silk, or nice quality poly, with just the keyhole opening and ties.

Megan Nielsen Sudley Blouse in Liberty Lawn

For reference I made Version 1 in a size XS.

Megan Nielsen Sudley Blouse in Liberty Lawn

Elsewhere

♥ In other news, I was really thrilled to be selected as a prize winner in Hannah Fettig’s recent #WeWearKnitbot Fashion Show. The competition was to style an outfit, which said something about you, around a garment made using one of Hannah’s patterns. As it happened, I had already made the Hancock cardigan as part of my One Year One Outfit ensemble. Hannah has created a gallery of all the entries, which is great for inspiring your next knitting project!

♥ Hannah is also hosting a knit-along on instagram during May, for her Point of View Vest. It’s a lovely summer pattern, designed to be knit in linen. I have Blacker Yarns Lyonesse left over from knitting Hancock, so I’m going to cast on using it – tempting as it is to buy new yarn!

Megan Nielsen Sudley Blouse in Liberty Lawn

♥ The free pattern for this year’s Shetland Wool Week, Crofthoose by this year’s patron Ella Gordon is totally adorable.

♥ If you live local to me (Birmingham, England), there are some cool local wooly events coming up: Yarnigham, a new yarn festival in July, TOFTFest to celebrate ten years of TOFT alpaca farm and yarn company in August, and Debbie Bliss will be at City Knits in Bourneville on Yarn shop Day (April 30).

Megan Nielsen Sudley Blouse in Liberty Lawn

♥ It’s Fashion Revolution Week, next week (18-24 April), and Emily from In The Folds is organising an online/instagram dialogue: Makers for Fashion Revolution.

♥ Safia Minney has released a new book, Slow Fashion: Aesthetics Meets Ethics. I’ve only just started reading, but it looks like a really interesting mix of profiles, interviews and essays. You can currently get a free copy if you spend over £70 at People Tree (with code SFBOOK1, until April 24).

♥ A new (online-only) fabric shop has opened local to me, Adam Ross Fabrics. They are offering 20% off first purchase with code, ENGLISHGIRLUK, no minimum spend.

 


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Liberty Linden Sweater Dress in Bruges

Linden Sweatshirt Dress in Liberty Fleece

Now that winter has returned, I’ve gone back to making Linden Sweatshirts! (Last year’s Lindens are here: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4).

Linden Sweatshirt Dress in Liberty Fleece

My mom bought me this Liberty fleece from SewBox at the Stitching, Sewing & Hobbycrafts show in Birmingham during November, as a birthday gift. I didn’t have a particular plan for the fabric but thought I’d make a Linden rather than risk a new pattern with Liberty fabric. I only had one metre of fabric but this fleece is very wide and once I’d laid out the pattern pieces it was clear I had more than was needed for a sweatshirt.

Linden Sweatshirt Dress in Liberty Fleece

To make the dress I used View A of the Linden Sweatshirt (size 0), and simply extended down the full length of the fabric, shaping in slightly near the hem. I used the Linden View B length sleeves. As with my previous Lindens, I cut the neckline band approximately one size larger to ensure it would lie nice and flat.

Linden Sweatshirt Dress in Liberty Fleece

Due to the thickness of the fabric, I folded over once at the hem and bottom of the sleeves and sewed two rows of stitching to secure.

Linden Sweatshirt Dress in Liberty Fleece

These photos were taken during a recent long weekend in Bruges, down a quiet street. In fact the whole of Bruges was quiet like this (making it the perfect blog photo location!) – until Saturday when many more tourists descended. Ignore the creases in these photos, I’d been walking around in the dress all day, and had it screwed up under a coat and scarf – temporarily removed for blog photos.

Linden Sweatshirt Dress in Liberty Fleece

I’ve got another Linden to blog soon, but am planning to try out Paprika Pattern’s Zircon as an alternative sweater / sweater dress next.


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Mini Dress with Raglan Sleeves from Stylish Party Dresses

Stylish Party Dresses V Mini Dress in Liberty Silk

These photos were taken alongside the Seine during my recent trip to Paris. The park where we took the photos is just outside the caravan park where we stay in Maisons-Laffitte and is a very peaceful spot, great for taking undisturbed blog photos.

Stylish Party Dresses V Mini Dress in Liberty Silk

The dress is pattern V, Mini Dress with Raglan Sleeves from Stylish Party Dresses by Yoshiko Tsukiori (pictured in the book below left). Tsukiori is the author of the Japanese sewing books which are probably best known in the UK, the Stylish Dress Books and the Happy Homemade series.

Stylish Party Dresses by Yoshiko Tsukiori

This is a really sweet little dress and a quick sew, with no darts. The pattern instructions recommend a button in the back neckline but I skipped it as the dress easily fit over my head without. The raglan sleeves are relatively hidden in the Liberty silk I used, which was purchased from Goldhawk Road for £12 per metre, but could look great colour blocked.

It was a little chilly that day, so this is how I wore the dress for most of the day, accompanied by my Unicorn Parallelograms scarf.

Stylish Party Dresses V Mini Dress in Liberty Silk

Stylish Party Dresses V Mini Dress in Liberty Silk

I love the Liberty silk, but it does fray quite a bit so seams need to be finished. It also sticks to tights so I’ve been wearing it with an underskirt, but it would be worth lining.

Stylish Party Dresses V Mini Dress in Liberty Silk

Stylish Party Dresses V Mini Dress in Liberty Silk

I suspect Stylish Party Dresses will be an equally popular addition to Tsukiori’s books published in English. It’s a lovely book which, in addition to 16 dresses, also includes boleros, tops, skirts, a slip and a jumpsuit. As with similar books (and sewing magazines, such as Burda) a number of the patterns use the same basic pattern with slight alterations. This approach means that once you have tried one version of a pattern you will have a good idea of any alterations you need to make to the alternative versions.

#SewBrum Raffle Prizes

Stylish Party Dresses by Yoshiko Tsukiori

In typical Japanese pattern book style, the garments generally have simple loose silhouettes, which not everyone will love, but I’m a big fan of (exhibit A, my own pattern the LouLou Dress). I think this book is particularly well presented and lovely to look at, with the garments made up in beautiful fabrics, including Liberty prints. The lighting is bright and details of the photographed dresses are fairly clear, and clarified further by illustrations on the instruction pages.

Stylish Party Dresses by Yoshiko Tsukiori

Stylish Party Dresses by Yoshiko Tsukiori

The book includes double-sided paper pattern sheets, which are stored in an envelope at the back of the book. Each pattern sheet includes a clear list of which pattern pieces it contains which I always really appreciate. Pattern pieces are overlapped so need to be traced and seam allowances added. The instructions for each pattern include a diagram showing where to add seam allowances.

Stylish Party Dresses by Yoshiko Tsukiori

Written instructions are minimal, but diagrams are included for each step, and most of the patterns appear relatively simple.

Stylish Party Dresses by Yoshiko Tsukiori

One thing to note is that the size range of the patterns in the book is quite limited. I fall between sizes 6 (bust) and 8 (waist and hips) but sized down due to the loose style of the pattern, and found the sizing accurate. The book doesn’t provide any information on the finished size of garments so you’ll need to measure the pattern pieces if you want to check the ease allowed prior to cutting out your fabric.

Stylish Party Dresses by Yoshiko Tsukiori

I’m planning to make the Gathered Neckline Dress (E) and Drape Top (I) next, which both have lovely neckline details.

#SewBrum Raffle Prizes

Stylish Party Dresses by Yoshiko Tsukiori

Disclaimer: I was provided with a free copy of Stylish Party Dresses in exchange for a review; all opinions expressed are my own.